Daily Life
The Mosuo’s blending of various religions extends from their daily and annual festivals into the construction of their buildings. Their structures are built with wood and look like log homes with dragon-tiled roofs. They are constructed around a central courtyard and the complex has a grandmother’s house with separate ones for girls over the age of thirteen. The uncles, the grandmother’s sons, also live in the complex. There is a golden stupa room for the family priest/lama. While all women over sixty earn the right to be called grandmothers, a leading matriarch is chosen from the clan, she becomes known as the main Grandmother. Her room is the center of family activity. In a typical Mosuo house, the Grandmother’s room is off to the left in the courtyard. There are two steps up and down to enter the room and one is expected to bow when entering. The steps indicate there is something sacred about entry into Grandmother’s space. The room is in two main sections divided by a stoop on which the majority of the room sits. At the back of the entrance is a table with a fireplace in front of it, and in the back corner is a Buddhist shrine. There is a long bench along the wall for visitors to sit. From the rafters above hang various pieces of pig: arms, legs, face and inner organs. Often at the back on a table is a large pig carcass that has been cleansed of all inner organs, blood and bones, then filled with salt, pepper, wine and a preservative. The carcass is sewn back together and kept for 7-8 years somewhere dry in the house as a sign of wealth and prosperity. The tradition for doing this seems to have started in the distant past when people did not usually have enough to eat, nor any way to preserve meat beyond a few days.
When one enters the room one needs to turn right to the main section, which is again divided into a right and left section. The right section is for the men to sit and has the male pole by it; the left side is where grandmother’s cupboard bed, the female pole and the women sit. The women’s pole is cut from the lowest level of the tree trunk, near the roots, while the male pole is taken from the middle section of the tree; both poles must be from the same tree and only by having both of them is the house strong enough. This structure is almost the diametric opposite of the style of a Mongolian ger. As in a ger, Mosuo young children sit in the middle. While fathers do not play a role in Mosuo culture, uncles do. The two most influential people in the family are grandmother and usually the eldest uncle.
In the middle of her room at the front is the family’s hearth, which has a large open round iron inset with three prongs to hold pots. At the back of the circle, by the wall is a small insert for food offerings to the ancestors, the shanbalas. Offerings are given first to the ancestors prior to every meal. Fire plays a very important part in Mosuo culture and the hearth is intended to be kept burning as an eternal flame 24/7. They worship the non-gendered Fire God as well as the Goddess Gemu and particular Tibetan Buddhist deities. Fire means happiness and well-being as it provides warmth and cooks food. Ancestor spirits are not just in and around the hearth, but also in the heavens, so sometimes the smoke from cooked meat—pig, goat, yak—is sent up through the rafters to the heavens above. Incense is also offered to the ancestors as well as to the Fire God.
On the opposite wall and facing the hearth is usually a poster of the Goddess Gemu on a white mare. She sits astride in a traditional Mosuo white skirt and pink-red bodice with rainbow colored ribbons flowing from her hair, headdress and the horse’s saddle blanket. The goddess holds a flute in one hand, indicating the importance of music to the culture, and a trident with conch in the other, indicating the strength religion brings with calling to the gods.
Diagonally across from the Grandmother’s bed is a small door that is only opened for birth and death. It is opened when a baby is born, and when the body is taken out of the house after death wrapped in white cloth similar to a baby’s swaddling clothes. Once a person dies, both the daba and the lama are called. The daba immediately performs send-off rituals, while the lama looks for the most auspicious time for the funeral, based on the deceased birth and death data. Once the time has been chosen, which can be anywhere from a week to a month after death, funeral procedures begin. The three-day ritual begins with the Lama reciting scriptures for the deceased, the following day a wake is held with family and friends, and the third day the actual funeral proceedings take place under the auspices of both the daba and lama. The body is taken from the house and placed in a small log cabin-like box that is on top of a funeral pyre. Today various kinds of artificial inflammation devices are used to help the burning process.
There are three major life event rituals and celebrations for the Mosuo: Birth, which is considered to include thirty days after a child is born, which is overseen by the women; the Coming of Age ceremony when children reach thirteen years of age which makes them adults— during this ceremony the children leave their kids’ clothes behind and change to adult clothes; and the third is Death, which is overseen by men. Rituals for all these events are conducted within the household. During the Cultural Revolution, these practices were abolished, along with most of the transmission of the legends and ancient artifacts, but since about 1986 there has been an interest in reinvigorating the traditional cultures, including that of the Mosuo. There has been a push from the government to reinstate both dabas and the local lamas. Lamu Gatusa’s work has been instrumental in recovering the legends, but, unfortunately, as a local guide explained, his hope for new generations of dabas has not met with success. Only men can be dabas and there are only a few left as no one wants to follow that path. In the past those who wanted to become a daba would apprentice with a practicing priest for a number of years before going out on their own. Nowadays, no one has the time nor interest to do this as formal schooling and other activities take precedence. Despite the loss of indigenous spiritual leaders, governmental support for rebuilding Buddhist temples and monasteries, both Chinese and Tibetan, is apparent throughout Yunnan Province as a means to promote tourism.
(To be continued)
(Meet Mago Contributor) Krista Rodin, Ph.D.