(Pilgrimage 3) Eight Devi Temples in Kumaon, Uttarakhand, India by Krista Rodin

[Editor’s Note: This and forthcoming parts are the report of pilgrimage visits made during October 2022.]

Kesar Devi

Moving from justice to grace, the next temple I visited was the Kesar Devi Temple on Crank’s Ridge. This ridge and the temple were famous in the 60s and 70s as a place where hippies would congregate. D.H. Lawrence, Timothy Leary, Lama Govinda, Bob Dylan, George Harrison etc. etc. etc. all came here seeking a spiritual experience.  It wasn’t just Westerners who came either, Swami Vivekananda, Rabindranath Tagore, Ravi Shankar among other Indians spent time here as well.  The temple is justifiably famous. The site has been a worship site since at least the 2nd c BCE; this is testified by a rock inscription in Brahmani script to the beautiful Goddess Kesar Devi, who was worshipped by the ancient Kassites. The temple is dedicated to the Goddess Parvati in her manifestation as Durga-Kaushiki. The book, Kumaon: Home of the Gods, explains,According to the Puranas, to kill Shumbhu and Nishumbh (demons), Devi Parvati took the form of Kaushiki and killed them. An inscription of a stone boulder says that the temple was constructed by a king named, Rudrak.  Another inscription of the 6th-7th c records that a temple by the name of Rudreshwar was also constructed. The place is known for its serenity and attracts tourists from across the globe.”[1]  Parvati can take many forms and one of them is Kesar Devi as protectress. Kesar is the name of the area. Not all Western tourists come to worship the Devi, many come because Kesar Devi is reputed to be one of the three places where the geomagnetic fields register the Van Allen Belts. The other two are Stonehenge and Machu Picchu. There is a sense of peace at the site, and I found that something strange was happening there. Suddenly my phone started playing music that fit with the site, and I hadn’t been listening to anything. When it started playing “Silent Night,” I knew something was off. There is definitely something energetic happening on the ridge. The hotel I was staying at was also on the ridge, and the wifi has distinct problems.

Photo by Krista Rodin

Kot Brahmari Temple – The Goddess as a Bee

This temple is on the way from Kesar Devi to Baijnath. There is a short turn off to the right and the road is good up to near the temple. This hilltop Durga temple has been recently renovated and painted pink and white.  It is spacious and quite a contrast to the earlier medieval temple complexes where the shrines are fairly close together.  The view from the site is worth the trip up, even in the rain. The main shrine has images of Mata Kot Bhramari and Nanda Devi, who were supposed to be the main deities of the Katyuri rulers of the Kumaon Valley from ca. 2500 BCE to 700 CE. No one knows for sure who built the original temple of when, but it has clearly been a place of worship for centuries. Bhramari Devi is mentioned in the eleventh chapter of Durga Saptashati, where it mentions that her back is to be worshipped, while her face is not to be seen by anyone other than the priest. If her wishes are not followed, then the entire Katyur valley will be adversely affected. Another legend is that during the reign of a Chand ruler, he was taking a rock statue of Nanda Devi from Garhwal to Almora. He stopped for a rest here and found that the rock was unable to be moved from the site. Since then, both Bhramari Devi and Nanda Devi are worshipped here. Bharmari Devi is supposed to have gotten her name from  a time the Goddess Bhagwati took the form of a bee in order to kill an Asura, a demon, who wasn’t able to be killed by either a god or a human not by any weapon. He had been terrorizing the local people and the Goddess took pity on them; she is therefore worshipped here in her bee/Bhramari form.

There is a major festival in March/April to honor her and another festival to honor Nanda Devi in August/September. The Nanda Devi Yatra that happens every twelve years, is also celebrated here.[2]

Photo by Krista Rodin

(To be continued)


[1] Kumaon: “Home of the Gods”, A Travelers’ Guide. New Delhi: Nest & Wings, 2018. 31

[2] https://misfitwanderers.com/kot-bhramari-temple/#devi-darshan-and-the-history-of-the-kot-bhramari-temple, Accessed October 8, 2022.


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